Oedipus Schmoedipus

Last week: I saw my first Greek Tragedy.

Murder and incest. The subject matter of this blog knows no bounds.

Thanks to my lovely friend Elise, who works as a seamstress in the costume department of the Brussels Opera House, last week I found myself with a free invitation to a production of the ultimate Greek Tragedy: Oedipus. Romanian composer George Enescu's Oedipus was premiered in 1936, so as operas go, it's a relatively modern work.

What I know about Greek mythology, I could write on the back of a postage stamp with a shovel, so I decided that a quick Wikipedia visit was in order beforehand, so as to familiarise myself with the legend, preempting that I wouldn't be able to follow the story or understand the subtitles. (Incidentally, the subtitles were projected in both French and Flemish - Flemish on the right and French on the left - and then swapped over mid-way through the performance, so that, no matter where you are seated, you have the opportunity to follow subtitles in your language of choice for at least half the proceedings. How very diplomatic).

The story of Oedipus goes something like this:

Once upon a time, King Laius and Queen Jocasta give birth to a son, who is then abandoned after a prophet announces that he will kill his father and marry his mother. The boy survives and is named Oedipus and brought up by King Polybus and Queen Merope who he believes to be his biological parents. When Oedipus also hears the horrific prophesy, he flees from his parental home. During his travels, in self-defence, he kills King Laius, leaving Jocasta a widow. Anybody who can kill the sphinx will be entitled to marry Jocasta and it is indeed, Oedipus that slays the monster. On discovering that he has murdered his father and married his mother, Jocasta commits suicide and then Oedipus gouges his own eyes out. Nobody lives happily ever after. The end.

Hardly an episode of Hi-De Hi.

The curtain lifted to the spectacular sight of around 120 people lined up on scaffolding at various heights all dressed in the same drab brown colour and waving olive branches. The main action was taking place in the centre where it appeared that a plastic baby was being baptised by the High Priest. Well I assumed it was the High Priest, but with his matted dreadlocks and tatty clothing, all that was missing was the dog on a string and you could forgive me for thinking I'd been transported to Glastonbury. I was quite disappointed that there was no fire juggling.


After this joyous ceremony, up popped ultimate party pooper, blind prophet Tiresias to throw a spanner in the works, predicting doom and gloom and announcing that this little baby's fate would be to bump off his Dad and shack up with his Mum. I don't know about you, but christenings I've attended have usually been followed by a rather pleasant buffet reception in the church hall or a trip to the local boozer to wet the baby's head, with no sign of Mystic Meg in sight.

For poor Oedipus it only went downhill from there, and the only adjective that springs to mind to describe his plight is 'wretched'. I think the cheeriest thing that came out of his mouth was "Happy is he who dies before he is born". But despite all this misery and despondency, I rather enjoyed myself. We had great seats (the tenth row from the front, central) and it was quite something to be in such a spectacular and prestigious building, even managing to sneak in a guided tour with Elise during the interval. The music was exquisite and performed beautifully by the orchestra and, although opera is not necessarily my bag, I could appreciate the vocal acrobatics and melodrama of the whole affair. I was particularly impressed with the scenery, which at times was built very high up and involved actors climbing up some rather long, narrow ladders. Their gymanstic prowess was to be applauded. I still haven't quite worked out why there was a fighter jet on stage at one point, though. I'm far from the world's authority on history, but I was under the impression that planes had yet to be invented in 5BC. I complimented Elise on the costumes which were delightful and explained how perplexed I was to see high visibility tabards and scally shellsuit tops amongst attire more fitting of the era. She couldn't shed any light on the matter.

But the beauty of being with Elise was that I managed to pick up on some of the insider gossip. Which is, of course, for my ears only!

Would I try this again?: Which one? Murder or incest?

Other celebrity eye gougers:

Betty Blue



Houston



Elle Driver











Roll Up, Roll Up...

Last week: I ate lacquements

The month of October means only one thing here in Liege:

The Fun Fair is in town!

The Foire de Liege runs for more than 1km through the Parc d'Avroy and is brimming with sensory delights; flashing fluorescent colours, lip-smacking sugary and savoury aromas and a whole host of heart-stopping attractions to fling you into positions you didn't deem possible.

Fairgrounds are much of a muchness wherever you go and, in many ways, the Foire de Liege, is not unlike the fairgrounds of my childhood with dodgy boom-boom chart/techno music, worthless tat for prizes, greasy hamburgers and seedy looking power-happy guys with tobacco-stained faces operating the dodgems. You can even hear French equivalent cries of 'Scream if you wanna go faster' in a thick Walloon accent if you listen carefully. In other ways, however, there are some subtle differences. In terms of political correctness, we have always been streets ahead in the UK and freak shows were dispensed with many years ago as were live animals and, even after so many years living on the continent, I am still in a state of shock when I see sad-eyed poneys tethered to a merry-go-round and my hot dog is served up by a bearded lady. And whilst I've never seen anybody win a goldfish in a polythene bag here in Liege, I have certainly never been able to enjoy a hearty mug of mulled wine at St Helens Show.

Nowadays I have a split personality when it comes to the fun fair. In one way, I revert back to childhood and overexcitement gets the better of me. One attraction I am still powerless to resist is the Kentucky Derby, where I enthusiastically roll wooden balls into holes until my plastic horse passes the finishing line first, much to the dismay of the five year-olds competing against me. But the more dangerous hair-raising attractions are now a thing of the past for me, after several bad experiences have seen me doubled over and vomiting after being spun sideways and upside down until my face turned green.

The last days of our Indian Summer at weekend gave me the perfect opportunity to drag my husband to the Foire de Liege for the purpose of trying something new for this blog. Not brave enough to be strapped into a bungee rocket or stupid enough to waste money on trying to win a furry Bob l'eponge (the French think 'Squarepants' is going too far), I figured it was time for a sweet treat. At the Foire de Liege, you can find all the usual fairground delicacies, but if you want to be truly Liegeois, you should forget candy floss and join the back of the endless queue for a box of lacquements.  

So, what the Dickens is a lacquement?

Other than being a potential heart attack wrapped in a serviette, lacquements/laquements/lakemans (in typical confusing Belgian fashion, there are allegedly 7 different officially recognised spellings) are like thin waffles sliced in two and stuffed with sugar candy syrup. They are then heated in a waffle iron (every home should have one) and served doused in even more syrup. After some research (lacquements are such a local speciality that they have a very limited appearance on Google Search), I discovered that two of the key ingredients that seem to give them their distinctive taste are orange flower and cinnamon. They were invented in 1903 by Monsieur Desire Smidts who named them after his place of work, but why they are still the fairground fodder of choice over 100 years later, nobody seems to know. Thinking back to my previous places of  work, I wonder if I could have made my millions by creating my own cake and naming it 'Bolton Virgin Megastore'....Or a pie called 'Remploy'?

Apparently it is quite a shocking state of affairs that I have lived in Liege for over a decade and never even tasted a lacquement. Real sticklers for tradition, many of my Liege comptatriots descend in their droves on the October fair just to get their mitts on a box of the sugary delights. They couldn't care less about the dodgems or the Hook-a-duck. "What's the fuss about?", I wondered.

Surely at 7 Euros for a box of 6 they should be a strong competitor for the best thing I've ever tasted? We sat on a bench on one of Liege's many charming squares in the October sunshine and tucked in. Within seconds I needed a bath, suddenly realising why they come in a handy portable box and that the general trend is to take-away so that they can be eaten in the comfort of your own home without embarrassing yourself in public. Oh well...at least there's a nice ornamental fountain around the corner where I can shower down. Which was switched off....

We enjoyed our tasty treat and had a second one each the day after, but a week later, there's still two left in the fridge (and I made some sensational Walnut and Honey Loaf in the meantime), so maybe they're not really my cup of tea after all...

Would I try this again?: The jury's out...

If you've got a waffle iron going rusty in your kitchen cupboard, you can find the traditional recipe here.

Slippery When Wet

Last week: I went to Carolus Thermen

Question: Why don't German women shave?
Answer:   Himalayan peeling salt

This was one of the many things I discovered on my first visit to the Carolus Thermen spa in Aachen last week, where I went for a blissful afternoon of relaxation with my friend Rachel. With the Android 80 album launch to prepare for, an abundance of translations to work on and a looming visit from the new CEO at the office, the last couple of weeks have been somewhat stressful. Last Thursday I was even quite happy to spend an hour in the dentist's chair just for the opportunity to relax and have a breather. Sunday's spa trip was the ideal way to round off this kind of high pressure period.

Carolus Thermen is one of the few thermal baths within easy driving distance that I had not yet visited and I was keen to discover how a German spa would compare with the Belgian ones where I have already grown to love whiling away my limited free time. On first impression, Carolus was very similar to the Thermes de Spa to the point that I would wager that the large indoor pool and outdoor bathing areas were designed by the same architect.

Not unlike their Scandinavian neighbours, the Germans prefer their spa experience au naturel and before entering the sauna and hammam area, bathing suits are discarded and replaced by birthday suits. This didn't phase me too much: I am fairly comfortable being naked in an environment where everybody is in the same boat and, while you may get the odd Kelly Brookalike, the majority of fellow spa-goers come in all shapes and sizes, so it's difficult to feel overly self-conscious. Add to that the fact that I was over 60 kilometres away from home, in a different country and unlikely to bump into someone with whom I share a photocopier, I was happy to whip off my speedos and get back to nature.

An 'A' Level German certificate obtained the wrong side of the Millennium can only get you so far and I struggled to interpret much of the signage adorning the walls. I contemplated the words "Sexuelle Handlungen" mentioned on a sign at the entrance to the nudist area...Could this notice be the equivalent of the notorious 70s poster that we all loved to giggle at back in the days of school swimming trips, bearing the warning "No Petting"? Clearly not. Everywhere I looked, couples varying vastly in degrees of age and attractiveness were draped over one another, dewy-eyed and salivating. One pair who were treading a fine line between innocent canoodling and out and out fornication, were approached by a member of staff and asked to turn things down a notch or two. I made a mental note to lay off the dive-bombing.

27 € for 3,5 hours made the afternoon fairly expensive compared to other baths I have frequented. But the sauna/hammam area seemed to go that extra mile than elsewhere. Surrounded by mosaic tiles creating a North African vibe, the central pool area was an oasis of tranquillity with soothing underwater music and a ceiling emulating a night sky complete with twinkling stars. Aaah.

According to Rachel, one of the plus points of the Carolus Thermen is that there are no creepy guys on the prowl. She couldn't have been more wrong. Immersed in the healing waters, listening to the inoffensive harp soundtrack and lapping up every minute, I suddenly became aware of another presence, a little too close for comfort. Invading my space was a hairy, oily early 50s guy with greasy slicked back locks and the kind of eyes that met in the middle of his face, making him look not so dissimilar to a Mandrill monkey. Uncomfortable, I exited the pool, aware of him following my every move, his eyes undressing me. Wait a minute...I was already naked...how does that work? Putting the incident behind me, I plunged into the hot bath in a different room and began to wind down again. Seconds later, my hirsute friend was bathing right beside me, a slimy grin dissecting his face. Time for a hammam.

The collection of 'baby' hammams is a novel idea. At differing temperatures, each individual bath has enough space for just two people, potentially slightly weird if you were to share one with an unclothed stranger, although perhaps not a bad idea for a first date, allowing you to dispense with social niceties and get the uncomfortable moment of seeing one another naked for the first time over and done with. I enjoyed a few minutes alone in a moderately heated cubicle and, as I was about to open the door to leave, who should come sliding in, but Mr Nice 'n' Sleazy. I hurried passed him, my skin literally crawling. This was going beyond stalking.


Nena: 99 matted hairs

It took some persistence, but I finally managed to shake off Mr Nice 'n' Sleazy and enjoy the rest of what Carolus Thermen had to offer, including the cold plunge and ice cube room (brrrr). Before entering the hottest hammam, we had the option of applying Himalayan Peeling Salt to our skin. Apparently, this pink grainy substance is rubbed all over the body and, combined with a few minutes in the hammam, can help eliminate toxins and balance your body's pH levels. The only toxic presence that I needed to eliminate was Mr Nice 'n' Sleazy, so I was more than willing to give it a go. Within seconds of application, I was wincing, my poor legs stinging and red raw. In typical paranoid British style, I had insisted on shaving before being seen bare limbed in public. We may disapprove of our furry German sisters, but maybe there is method in their madness after all.

Feeling a little peckish on the way home, Rachel suggested stopping off at one of her favourite restaurants, a fabulously authentic Turkish eatery in Aachen city centre. She recommended the Mercimek Corbasi - Lentil soup - which was a truly delicious and hearty treat. And as if things couldn't get any better, in sidled Mr Nice 'n' Sleazy who sat opposite, looking over as he munched on a kebab.

Would I try this again?: If I ever see Mr Nice 'n' Sleazy again, I'm calling the police.

Goodbye Saturday Night

Last week: I watched Strictly Come Dancing.

After over a decade of a TV-free household, a few months ago we decided to take the plunge and introduce the goggle box back into our lives. The abstention has had positive effects and I'm pleased to say that we haven't yet slipped into the bad habit of keeping it switched on at all times as background noise and we still pretentiously lounge around reading high-brow culture magazines and listening to Bill Evans. On the other hand, it seems that my propensity for watching mindless entertainment is stronger than ever and I've been caught more than once by my husband, feet up, biscuit semi-immersed in Earl Grey, glued to One Tree Hill, Dawson's Creek or one of the many throwaway made-for-TV movies that they tend to show on the Vitaya channel.

With the BBC absent from my home, one of the biggest cultural phenomena of the noughties (did I really just use that word?) has managed to pass me by. In 2004, BBC 1 launched Strictly Come Dancing - a modern reworking of classic family favourite Come Dancing - and the Saturday Nights of much of the UK female population have never been the same since. Nights out on the town have been abandoned in favour of sequins and cumerbunds and women around the country can be seen huddled together on sofas sharing a bottle of wine and holding up scorecards as they watch popular newsreaders, radio djs, tennis players and even politicians attempt to perform a flawless quickstep on live TV. For many of my girlie friends it has become an annual ritual and no matter how much I try to feign disinterest, I feel like I'm missing out.

With my SCD (did I really just use its acronym?) addicted sister-in-law visiting last week coninciding with the beginning of a new series, it was the perfect opportunity to have my first taste of the ritzy dance contest (and my first taste of one of the bottles of gin that she was armed with). Presented by cheesy comic genius Bruce Forsyth and yet another typical BBC interchangeable leggy blonde, Tess Daly, the first leg of the competition took place over two programmes aired on Friday and Saturday night when 14 alleged "celebrities" (who the hell is Dan Lobb?) were out to prove what they've got in the booty shaking department. Several weeks earlier they had been paired up with professional dancers who had been teaching them the necessary moves to prevent them from making a holy show of themselves in front of the whole nation and their ensuing early elimination. On this first edition, contestants were required to perform either a waltz or cha-cha-cha, after which, the camera panned to a panel of "expert" judges holding aloft scorecards bearing marks from 1-10 and offering up their various critiques.

Let's face facts, some contestants have a clear advantage over others whose only purpose is to be sent to the lions and face public ridicule in an effort to send TV ratings through the roof. Holly Valance has wiggled
her touche in more than one MTV-destined pop video, so it wasn't much of a suprise that she scored highly and looked smoking hot performing a rather sultry cha-cha-cha. And no more was it suprising that Edwina Currie had as much grace as a cart horse, although I wasn't expecting or hoping that she would show her pants. I would say stick to politics, Edwina, but then again...

The highly likeable Jason Donovan was the star of the show, displaying an admirable sense of competitiveness which probably explains why he's got where he is today (as it's clearly not through any singing talent). Others with an A for effort included Anita Dobson, camper than Christmas astrologist Russell Grant, and Mcfly Drummer Harry Judd. Flying the trollop flag for Greater Manchester and, despite her inflatable chest, soap actress Chelsee Healey, managed to put in a rather elegant display of the waltz. Bulky frame aside, boxing gold medallist Audley Harrison looked sleek and borderline debonair during his performance and, although I wouldn't kick him out of bed for eating biscuits, I don't particularly envy his partner who runs the risk of his size 17 feet treading on her dainty little tootsies every time they hit the dancefloor.

TV can't get much worse than the vision of Italian super slapper Nancy dell'Olio catching a stiletto in a feather boa and almost going for a ball of chalk (for those of you unfamiliar with my Northern colloquial lingo, read 'arse over tit'). But even Nancy was outshone in the two left feet stakes. Botoxed to the eyeballs 60s chanteuse, Lulu, looked like she'd hit the dancefloor after one too many WKDs, flailing her arms about and stumbling into her Strictly (did I really just use its abbreviation?) dance partner, making him wish that he'd gone through with his audition for The Chippendales. But I'm sure she made her grandchildren proud.

Would I try this again? It's already series linked.

Puttin' On the Ritz

Last week: I had my first tap dance lesson.

St Helens Theatre Royal, 1980 give or take a year or two. My first ever stage performance. I had been attending ballet classes for some time but my enthusiasm was, alas, outweighed by my inaptitude (I think the dance teacher's exact words were 'baby elephant') and I was kindly coaxed in the direction of tap dance which was a little less delicate than the fairy princess stuff I had in mind (it was never going to work - I had flat feet and a skinhead for God's sake). Little Wooden Head from Pinocchio was the soundtrack to our loosely choreographed routine and weren't we all adorable in our pointy triangular cloth hats flitting across the stage? I even caused a ripple of delight through the audience when my little hat fell to the ground. Racked with decades of guilt, I now feel compelled to confess that I did this deliberately so that all eyes would centre on me (sorry Mum).

Forward 30 years or so to last week when I found myself on my bike heading over to the Ecole Martine Wolff for my first ever real tap dancing lesson. My two friends Vanessa and Maria were meeting me there and feelings wavered between high excitement and maybe just a little apprehension.

On paper, I should have everything going for me as a budding tap dancer: Tap dancing has it's roots in English Lancashire Clog Dancing which was performed by cotton mill workers and miners to emulate the sounds of the machinery. With Lancashire being very much my neck of the woods, I can vividly picture my charcoal-faced ancestors shaking a leg in the working men's clubs in between copious pints of ale after clocking off from a hard day down the pit. I've certainly inherited their taste for ale so why not their affinity for tap dancing? Tap is also widely considered as a form of music and its percussive element often draws comparison with drumming. My Dad and brother are both hugely talented drummers, so if genetics have treated me with the same kindness, I could well be the next Ginger Rogers in the making.

Not about to prematurely invest in expensive tap shoes, I was unsure what footwear would be the most appropriate. Vanessa had dropped by the class the week before for a trial session wearing flip-flops and advised me that this perhaps wasn't the best idea. There was another girl in attendance sporting 14-hole Dr Martin boots, so I didn't feel quite so bad in a pair of simple suedette slip-ons with a leather sole and low heel. Unfortunately, this was not the wisest choice either and I spent much of the lesson with my feet in an unnatural position, in an attempt to prevent the shoes from sliding off, which impeded me from producing the kind of nifty footwork that I had in mind.

Our teacher was delightful. She first taught us some basic warm-up moves with patience and encouragement. Unsuprisingly, I was the first student to be singled out for making more than a bit of a hash of the shuffle, but she paid individual attention to everybody until we all got it right. In just one hour we mastered Step, Touch, Stamp, Toe, Ball, Dig, Brush, Backbrush, Shuffle and Heel and then we put all these steps together to form a mini routine that we were then instructed to rehearse before our next lesson. The music was all in 8 time and most of it, right up my street: you don't get much groovier than Mancini's Pink Panther Theme and I'm always a sucker for Nina Simone's husky vocals and jazzy baroque piano, although I could have managed ok without any Michael Buble (but I guess there's no show without Punch).

Would I try it again?: I have signed up for 10 sessions and bought some rather snazzy tap shoes.

Some Useful Links:

• Don't try this at home: Vance's Fantastic Tap Dance Dictionary
• The Portable Tap Floor: Every pocket should have one